I lived in California while going to college, but was far from the beach and never went during the day. That, along with the occasional surfing enthusiast I knew in high school, is the closest I ever really came. I've just never been that exposed to the whole surfing thing, and so never really had the opportunity to learn much about it.
But I'd like to. While I don't expect to throw my cares to the wind and become a beach bum, or scour the world for the best waves, I'd love to learn to ride. There's something about surfing that exudes fitness - even though most surfers are not ripped or particularly buff. The balance involved, the resonance they have with nature, the pursuit of freedom on the water, it makes them athletes.
I never even considered learning how to surf before starting this journey. I figured I could never fit in the wetsuit and I fell off the 6-inch balance beam at school. I don't even know where to learn, today. I'll probably combine my "surfing" goal with another to cruise or go to a resort, and take one of those silly tourist surfing lessons. But that's not a reason not to try. And when I'm fit, I want to be out there riding the waves.
Updated Aug 16, 2008
